THE OLD HOMES OF DAMASCUS

A World of Oriental Comfort

by HABEEB SALLOUM, senior global correspondent

The first time that I walked the streets of Old Damascus, the oldest continuously inhabited city on earth, some four decades ago, I thought that I had travelled back to the Middle Ages. Narrow winding streets overshadowed by the edging structures with high plain walls did not seem to have the lure of the Arabian Nights.

However, this all changed when I entered through a small plain doorway into a courtyard filled with blossoming fruit trees defusing their aroma of enticing natural perfume. Amid the trees, an ornamental fountain with spraying water gave a sense of contentment and relaxation. For me, it was a secluded world of comfort, history and mystique.

After exploring a good number of these historic houses, the crown jewels of Damascus, I, like other travellers, was ensnared, as was Ibn Jubayr, a 12th century Arab traveller from Al-Andalus (Arab Spain) who called Damascus ‘The Bride of Cities.’ Some 600 years later, the English historian Alexander W. Kinglake dropped by and fell in love with the city, considering its homes, with their rich inlaying of many colours and illuminated writings on the walls, more sumptuous than those of any other city in the East.

The traditional Damascene houses, hiding behind their walls a variety of trees and shrubs, marble floors, mosaics, stone sculptures and attractive architecture, are some of Damascus’s greatest attractions. Throughout history they were responsible, to a great extent, for making the city famous.

Despite the expansion of the modern city - now comprising over 4-5 million inhabitants- the Old City still retains a good number of 18th and 19th century homes. In between these jewels from the past, baths, busy souks, khans, and mausoleums, many built in the Damascene style of black basalt and white limestone, combine to give Old Damascus its renowned appeal.

Built in a way to suit all seasons, especially summer and winter, the Damascene homes were once divided into three parts - one for men, one for women and, for the affluent, the third part for servants. Famous for their use of open space, the dominant element of Middle Eastern architecture for thousands of years, these houses are tucked away in a labyrinth of winding lanes and blind alleys.

Every home has an outer door, giving access to one person only. A narrow corridor leads to a large highly-decorated courtyard open to the sky. Grape vines and lemon, orange and other citrus fruits, and fragrant jasmine are among the many plants found in the courtyard of every old Damascene home. In spring, the house becomes a perfumery of many seductive odors.

Leading off from the courtyard, the living quarters, including the guest room, sitting room, and iwan (a roofed sitting room with a raised floor) all are decorated with carvings and mosaics. They feature sumptuously decorated wooden ceilings and built-in cupboards, marble floors of different geometric designs and colours, huge wooden framed mirrors, and furniture inlaid with mother of pearl. The upper stories, partially projecting over the street, were the living rooms. Their latticed windows gave the women of the household a chance to see the happenings on the street below, but not to be seen themselves.

Some of the larger family homes are built of stone, but the majority are built of mud brick within a wood framework. Renovations need to be carried out every few years or the houses will begin to deteriorate, and in about a dozen years, collapse. The roofs are especially venerable. Every year they have to be thickened with mud against the challenge of winter.

A century ago, there were some 20,000 of these traditional Damascus homes. Today, less than half of these remain. Earlier in the last century, the wealthy began to move to the suburbs, and the poor who moved in did not have the money for repairs. Also, many of the larger houses became smaller and smaller as generation after generation, they were gradually divided up among family members.

Just in time, the Syrian government began to realize a few decades ago that it must protect its national heritage, especially the preservation of the old Damascene homes. This fit nicely into its plans to develop tourism in the country. While the destruction of the bygone eras cannot be undone, it is hoped that past errors will not be repeated. Few nations in the world have such a heritage crying out for preservation and appreciation.

During the last half century, some of the historic homes have been restored by a number of local and foreign organizations, mostly for commercial purposes. This has led to an explosion of cafes and restaurants and cultural centres located in these renovated homes. They have become Meccas for both Damascenes and tourists seeking fine dining and entertainment.

These homes are now considered to be an important part of the heritage of the city, and an indication of the elegance of Damascene life in the past. One of the oldest houses in Damascus, built in 1737, Bayt Jabri, has been partially restored and turned into a delightful café with an unique fresh atmosphere.

A two-floor complex comprising 23 rooms, it carries the traditional features of a past affluent Damascene home. The house remained deserted for about two-dozen years until one of the family members decided to open in it a family café, and from the money earned, restore the house. This proved very successful - the house and its dining area, which even has an internet café, overflows with Damascenes and tourists every day. Clients can feel the pulse of Old Damascus while enjoying their drink, water pipe or meal, which, on average, costs about $5 U.S.

Another of these homes houses the Narcissus Palace in the Qamariya area in Damascus. Built in 1735, it is considered a historical monument of Damascus - a great example of the old Damascus house. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner, and from 10 p.m. to midnight an oud player performs. After renovation of the home, the Narcissus opened a few years ago as a restaurant, offering local Damascene food. Also, there are plans that in the near future, the second floor will open as an art gallery.

One of the tourist guides who accompanied our group said that in the Qamariya district of Damascus, there are many old homes being renovated as restaurants. He explained, “These homes are being restored according to their original plans, with arabesque floral motifs and the revival of their original colours and designs. They are exactly what tourists are seeking.”

He went on to say that, on the other hand, in the Bab Touma quarter, which is noted for its old Damascene homes that have been renovated into ‘European style restaurants,’ its popularity amongst tourists is very low. The problem, as he explained it, is that the architects and designers who restored these Bab Touma homes thought that by making them “European style,” this would attract visitors, especially tourists. He continued, “As it turns out, the tourists want something real - something with the Damascus-Arab touch. This is why the restaurants in the Qamariya section of Damascus are so popular and always packed with tourists and even Syrians.”

A few of the other renovated old Damascene homes are: the Nofa family home, which now houses the Arabesque Restaurant; Bayt al-Barudi, housing the Hasan al-Kharrat School; and Bayt Nizam, Bayt Na’san, Bayt Dahda, Dar al-Suba’I, and a number of others open to visitors. They all relay to travellers a hidden world of comfort, history and mystique.

IF YOU GO...

Facts to Know When Travelling in Syria:
1) Convert money only in banks. New exchange rates have eliminated the once thriving black market - currently $1. U.S. equals about 52 Syrian liras in banks.
2) Despite being depicted in some of the Western media as a land full of terrorists, Syria is very safe for travellers - one of the safest countries in the world. Even women travelling alone find few problems. Urban crime that plagues most modern cities is virtually non-existent in Syria.
3) The best way to get around Damascus is by taxis, which are metered and dirt cheap - average cost of trips in the city average from $1. to $2.
4) Four good dining places are the Cham Palace Chinese Restaurant, the best Chinese dining place in Syria; Abo Alez located on the edge of the Umayyad Mosque; and Beit Jabri and Al Shami House Restaurants, housed in removed of homes. Very reasonably priced, they offer excellent Arabic food.
5) Internet cafes are found in all the major cities in Syria. Many use DSL and are very up-to-date. In luxury hotels the price is from $6. to $7. per hour; in regular cafes from $1. to $2.

Good Place to Stay in Damascus:

The top places to stay in Syria are the Cham Palaces and Hotels - a deluxe chain covering the whole of Syria. In Damascus there are 2 excellent Cham Palace Hotels. The Cham Palace, the flagship of the chain, located in the heart of town, is the place to stay. A luxury abode, its inside is richly decorated with inland mother of pearl furniture and panels and its lobby is seemingly out of the Arabian Nights. For prices and for reserving rooms in all the Cham Palace Hotels in Damascus and the remainder of Syria, check http://www.chamhotels.com/syria.html As well, Chamtours and Chamcar Rentals cover the whole of Syria.

Note: All prices quoted are in U.S. dollars.

For Further Information, Contact: Syrian Embassy, Ottawa, 151 Slater Street, Suite 1000, Ottawa Ontario, Canada, K1P 5H3. Tel: 613-569- 5556. Fax: 613-569- 3800. E-mail: syrianembassy@on.aibn.com or Embassy of the Syrian Arab Republic, 2215 Wyoming Ave. N.W., Washington D.C., 20008 U.S.A. Tel: 202/232-6313. Fax: 202-234-9548. E-mail: info@syrianembassy.us or see website: http://www.syriatourism.org/new/

All photos were taken by and are the property of Habeeb Salloum